Multi-American

How immigrants are redefining 'American' in Southern California

Enter the green bean casserole taco - ironic, yes, but good?

Photo by dolescum/Flickr (Creative Commons)

A colleague flagged me this week on the "12 Days of Tacos" promotion at Komida, a newish gourmet Japanese-Mexican fusion taco joint in Hollywood that has devoted fans.

It's been a while since ethnic food fusion jumped the shark, and some of the combos that have evolved in the wake of the game-changing Kogi's Korean taco (imitations of which are now found frozen at Costo) have been, well, not worth mentioning.

That said, Komida's regular menu does sound pretty good. I haven't tried it yet, but as any fan of Mexican-style sushi can tell you, it's a flavor combo that works. And some of the 12 daily taco specials they'll be serving until Christmas don't look bad either - until I got to this one:

Grandma's green bean casserole with haricot vert, roast garlic bechamel, crispy shallots.

Ironic hipster hot-dish kitsch overload in a tortilla? If it had to happen anywhere, it had to be L.A.

The uber-hip taco is set to be served Monday. The question is whether it'll taste good. I'll admit that green bean casserole (replete with canned mushroom soup as a base) is one of the feel-good Americana items I make each year for my family's otherwise non-traditional Thanksgiving table, and there is a heavily comforting element to its mushy mouthfeel. Even the color, which recalls abuelita's 1970s-era sofa, is something soothing.

Between now and Christmas, in addition to truly tasty-sounding combos like tacos made with roast turkey and agave-glazed ham, there will be more taco irony: A "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer" taco with grilled venison and ginger-cherry salsa (which actually sounds good if you're into that sort of thing) and a "fruit cake with with figgy pudding" taco, which I suspect will have to taste better than it sounds. These are professionals, after all.

But it's the green beans that leave me no choice but to try and make it to Hollywood for lunch Monday. Can an ironic taco please the taste buds, or will a pit stop at Dos Burritos down the street be necessary afterward? All good either way.

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