Photo by Leslie Berestein Rojas/KPCC
A pair of green bean casserole tacos from Komida, December 2011
A post several days ago posed a question perhaps best not brought up at lunchtime: Can a taco composed of holiday green bean casserole actually taste good? Or in a world in which Kogi-style Korean barbecue "street" tacos are now found frozen at Costco, has taco fusion given way to hipster taco irony gone out of bounds?
This was in reference to a “12 Days of Tacos” promotion at Komida, a Hollywood gourmet Japanese-Mexican fusion taco joint that has been advertising daily taco specials on its Facebook page like roast turkey tacos, agave-glazed ham tacos and venison tacos with ginger-cherry salsa cheekily dubbed "Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer.”
None of which perversely grabbed my attention like the taco special last Monday, Dec. 12, "Grandma’s green bean casserole with haricot vert, roast garlic bechamel, crispy shallots."
"It sound kind of good," a couple of colleagues said when I told them about it. I wasn't so sure, imagining the familiar mushy mouthfeel and avocado-green color of green bean casserole, only in a tortilla.
As it turns out, it wasn't half bad. I stopped at Komida last week on green bean casserole taco day, taking home a pair of said tacos made personally by a very friendly chef Brock Kleweno. The beans were sauteed and crisp, topped with mushrooms and cheese and freshly deep-fried onions. It would have tasted just fine without the tortilla, but there was something nice about being able to crunch down on salty sauteed green beans as finger food.
Perhaps that's the lesson to be learned by a taco-fusion skeptic: If you put anything tasty in a tortilla, it's still going to taste good.
Now for the game meat test: The venison tacos are on the menu today. I won't be there, but if anybody reading this gets to taste whether Rudolph does well as a taco, please do tell.