Photo by stopthegears/Flickr (Creative Commons)
Multi-American's sister blog DCentric in Washington, D.C. has been taking on the topic of food authenticity, in particular whether ethnic food that's prepared and served by chefs and proprietors of an ethnicity different from that of the cuisine is sufficiently "authentic." Last week, blogger Elahe Izadi profiled a couple of these restaurateurs, a Salvadoran immigrant who operates a pizzeria and an Iranian immigrant who runs a Cajun restaurant.
In a first-person piece yesterday, Izadi explained her connection: She's the child of an Iranian immigrant father who worked in Italian restaurants, eventually developed his own sauce recipe, and opened his own restaurant serving Italian food. From the post:
Growing up, many people assumed we were Italian, particularly since there weren’t many Iranians in our fairly homogenous community. Sometimes we’d joke that my grandmother was part-Italian, or that my father had flown over Italy and that counts for something. Some customers, among them Italians, would tell us how the food reminded them of restaurants in Little Italy or Italy itself.
In our home, my mother’s Persian cooking reigned supreme. But sometimes we’d eat white pizza and eggplant parmigiana from our restaurant, which was also home cooking. At large family get-togethers, we served traditional Persian dishes alongside baked ziti.
Photo by cattoo/Flickr (Creative Commons)
Should it matter if Cajun food is prepared by a chef from Iran, sushi by a chef from Mexico?
In a land where your sushi chef might be from Mexico, they guy who makes your pizza might be from El Salvador, and the owner of your favorite Cajun joint might be from Iran, how relevant is "authenticity" to a restaurant if the food is good? And what constitutes authenticity, anyway?
Elahe Izadi of WAMU's DCentric blog in Washington, D.C. poses these questions in an interesting post today, talking to the chefs and patrons of eateries operated by people whose ethnicity is different from that of the cuisine served.
Among those she interviews is Bardia Ferdowski, an Iranian immigrant who moved to Louisiana, working in Cajun restaurants and eventually opening his own Cajun kitchen in D.C. She also talks to Jose De Velasquez, an immigrant from El Salvador whose pizzeria, the Italian-sounding Moroni & Brothers, also serves Salvadoran and Mexican food. From the piece:
Forget momentarily about chocolate, oysters and the rest of the usual food suggestions that accompany Valentine’s Day, about aphrodisiacs and expensive dinners. As a favor to lovestruck foodies in the Los Angeles area, a few colleagues and I recently came up with an unscientific but well-loved list of some of the best date-friendly offerings to come out of our immigrant enclaves.
Ethiopian There’s something very intimate about sharing a meal from the same dish, eaten with your hands. The spongy injera bread serves as a both plate and utensil with which to scoop up savory stews, called wot, and other dishes, making the meal a tactile experience. The food itself is fragrant, seasoned with garlic, ginger and other spices.
One place to find it: Nyala at 1076 South Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 936-5918