Weekend wine: Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel

Who doesn't like Zinfandel? These robust reds are a counterpoint to more refined Cabernets and Merlots. Not that they can't be special in their own right. But for the most part, they're less complicated, less...well, snooty, and certainly less expensive than reds of grander pedigree.

One of my favorites comes from Ridge Vineyards, the idiosyncratic winery that hired Paul Draper as winemaker in 1969. He's still there (he also makes — or rather now oversees the making of — a truly great California Cabernet, Monte Bello). While Ridge pricier Zins, you can usually find the Lytton Springs bottling quite easily. The 2009 vintage retails for about $25.

I think it gives a lot of Cabs at twice the price a real run for their money. The fruit is abundant, dark, and rich. But there are also lots of spicy elements. A wine with plenty of oomph, but also plenty of harmony.

Wonderful with grilled butterflied leg of lamb.