DeWine Report

"Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used."

Drew Barrymore is now a...winemaker?

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And who doesn't want to be a winemaker these days? Welcome, then, Drew Barrymore to the sister- and brotherhood of vitners!

Well, more accurately, we should welcome the 37-year-old star of "E.T." and "Charlie's Angels" and the owner of a "Rebellious era" sub-entry in Wikipedia to the brother- and sisterhood of wine importers. Which is not a bad thing. I love wine importers. But don't expect to see Drew in a row of Merlot vines with a pair of pruning shears or down in a musty wine cellar rolling barrels around any time soon. (For the record, Drew is teaming up with Wilson Daniels, an established importer, to make this all happen.)

Her first wine under the rather appealingly conservative Shepard Fairey-designed "Barrymore" label is a 2011 Pinot Grigio from Italy. It isn't cheap, at $20. I haven't tried it yet. But at $20, it's by definition ludicrously overpriced. Pinot Grigio is a lunchtime wine that's built for washing down...well, lunch. And it has a name that's fun and easy to say (It rhymes!), which led it to be foisted on the American public as a Chardonnay alternative in bars a few years back. You can get a perfectly tasty one for less than $10.

But let's not complain too excessively. Drew says she wanted a wine that was "fresh, dynamic, and fun." Her Pinot Grigio is probably just that.

The trend here to note isn't so much celebrity winemaking as celebrity wine-branding. I'm even willing to cut Drew some slack on the price tag. She's staged a nice comeback. There's no reason she should ever sell herself short again.

 

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