Orange County surfer wins prestigious big-wave surfing contest

Dec. 9, 2009 | KPCC Wire Services
Mercer 1967

Makuakai Rothman, Sunny Garcia, and Ibon Amatrian ride a wave during the first round of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Competition big wave surfing contest on December 8, 2009 in Waimea, Hawaii. Thousands of spectators and surfers are flocking to Hawaii's beaches to see some of the largest waves in the state in half a decade.

An Orange County surfer won first place and $55,000 in prize money for winning the world's most prestigious big-wave contest at Oahu's Waimea Bay, it was reported today.

A major Pacific swell set up ideal conditions Tuesday for the Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau big-wave event, and 26-year-old Greg Long of San Clemente made the most of wave-face heights of 35 to 50 feet.

Tuesday was the first time in five years that conditions were considered suitable to stage the contest.

"I'm still standing here in awe, and I want to go back and check the scores to make sure someone isn't going to come here and take this away," Long told the Honolulu Advertiser.

"It's hard to put into words what this actually means," Long said. "Everybody knows this is a world class big wave, and some of the rides will go down in history as some of the biggest paddle waves ever."

Long clinched victory Tuesday with a perfect 100 score by riding a steep 50-foot face and emerging as the wave exploded into whitewash behind him.

The "Eddie" is held only when wave-face heights are consistently 40 feet at Waimea Bay, and it has only been held eight times in its 25-year history.

Long is the first Californian to win the title, the Advertiser reported. Kelly Slater of Florida placed second and Sunny Garcia of Hawaii placed third.

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