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William Finnegan explores his past in his new memoir 'Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life'




Photo by Aaron Guy Leroux via Flickr Creative Commons

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Most people, if they ever ran into a shark might not get back into the ocean… for at least a few weeks. The video of pro surfer Mick Fanning's encounter with a shark July 19 went viral but ten days later there he was back in the water… and he saw another shark. And Fanning just went to another beach and kept on surfing.

Yeah, surfers are a different breed.

They chase waves like the rest of chase love and even when those waves come close to killing them, they start flirting with the next one that looks good. Journalist William Finnegan is a staff writer at The New Yorker. He's traveled around the world reporting on conflicts and surfing spots that local Malibu kooks could only dream of.

He joins A Martinez to talk about his new memoir "Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life."

To hear the full interview click on the audio embedded above.